New Zealand May-June 2002

QUEENSTOWN, MILFORD SOUND
Cheryl and I made it safely to New Zealand on Wed. which is really Tues. + 5 hours in case you're playing along at home. The flights were painless, but I guess that's what a half dozen cocktails and sleeping pills will do to you:) We started our journey in Queenstown on the southern tip of the South Island. Words and our myriad of photos will never be able to adequately describe Queenstown. Imagine a beautiful small town in the middle of a mountain range so that there are mountains in every direction you look. And if that wasn't enough, imagine this town on the water between all those mountains.

The food has been unbelievable as well. Everything just tastes so much better here, and no, it's not just because we're on vacation and drinking all the local wines. They don't use all the chemicals and preservatives that we do in the states so absolutely everything tastes better from the meat to the pizza to the sour cream. We have not had a bad or even mediocre meal.

We took a day trip out of Queenstown to 2 small towns. We each had a request for the day - Cheryl to tackle some of the wineries and me to climb the highest mountain. So we left Queenstown dressed for our individual requests even though we were going to do both together. With Cheryl at the wheel of our rental, we only had one near miss with being on the wrong, wrong side of the road. Luckily I was just reading the map so didn't realize that we were in the same lane as oncoming cars until Cheryl screamed.

There were no other catastrophes until it came time to climb the Iron Mountain. I've got all my rain and wicking gear on, and Cheryl is ready to talk grapes and chardonnays in her black pants and sweater. Well it was sprinkling pretty much the entire drive, and when we got out of the car for the hike, the skies unleashed. We have a no complaining policy (we're on vacation, what could be that bad?), so we continued with the hike in the pouring rain, up a steep mountain to the top. The view was magnificent or at least what we caught of it before the fog rolled in and we couldn't see each other anymore. No, literally, we couldn’t see a foot in front of us.

Of course we made it back down ok in the rain, fog and did I mention it was bitter cold? I loved it. Cheryl was storing it for ammunition to do her bike tour through the vineyards in the north, rain or shine. Then of course we go to this wonderful vineyard, soaking wet and smelly, but we ended up having a fantastic time because not only do they have great wines, but they have one of NZ's best "cheeseries." We dripped away at a little table with a tray full of the most amazing cheeses and meats and a wine sampler of 8 different wines. I ended up making the first wine bottle purchase and we started planning our next wine dinner.

Our other day trip out of Queenstown was to Milford Sound, which is compared to one of the 7 Wonders of the World, and after seeing it, I think it's got a shot to make it 8. We took a bus tour because it snowed there the night before and we couldn't drive without chains. I'll reserve comment on the bus tour concept, but since it was 4 hours each way, it was nice not to have to do all that driving. Again, I can't even describe the scenery with mountain ranges far as the eye can see, littered with green pastures, sheep, deer, cows, nothing but open space. We passed through towns with populations of 45 people. The bus driver pulled the entire bus over to a small house halfway into the trip, where he threw a newspaper out to "a guy" he drops it to everyday. The people couldn't be nicer here and they don't have the anti-American sentiment that many other foreign countries do have.

Well it appears the rain has stopped now, so there's more adventure to be had. We've gotten fairly lucky with the weather - rain every other day, but great blues skies the others. It's chilly, but reminds me of fall in the east. Very crisp, but beautiful.

That's it for today. We're in Christchurch now and heading to Napier/wine country tomorrow. More stories to follow. Hope everyone is well.

CHRISTCHURCH, HAWKES BAY

Today was a landmark day in our trip. It was the first day we did not need to wear our fleece and/or rain jackets. I'm surprised these 2 pieces of clothing of mine haven't run off on their own yet. We're finishing our last day in Hawkes Bay, which is wine country. Having never been to Napa, it's hard to know what to compare it to, but Cheryl tells me I've been spoiled up here. Let me back up though.

It was a beautiful morning yesterday, blue skies, crisp temperature (nothing but crisp up here), and we were going to set off on bikes and ride through the vineyards. We got to the bike place, picked out our spiffy bikes complete with basket for our packed plastic tupperware lunch, yellow flag on a pole off the back, helmet, water and cell phone they give us so if we want to buy wine (or fall over drunk in the middle of the road), they'll come and pick us up. We got on our bikes, big smiles, flag waving against the big, blue sky, and just as we’re biking out of the driveway, the skies opened up and started pouring on us. We could not be stopped. Little wilted flag waving, we pushed across the 2 lane roads between the sheep, cattle, deer, and then lost our wine map in a big puddle in the middle of the street before we even got to the first vineyard. Map or no map, we trudged on. Cars were passing us with their hazards on. One car stopped, rolled down their window, and in their nice Kiwi accent said, “excuse me, it’s really not a very nice day for a bike ride.” Ha, we say to them. There’s wine to be had.


The stories really go on from there, including trying to pace ourselves for the 7 vineyards so we could still see, bike, and taste (not necessarily in that order). The 2nd vineyard in, there were 10 wines to taste and that's when it really started going downhill for us. The rain stopped but the gale force winds started in so much so that there were times I thought I was in spinning class - pedaling in place, not going anywhere. It's bad when the sheep are passing you. Though I could go on for hours about our wine endeavors, let's just say the day ended with the owners of the bike place picking us up at a vineyard and making us go home. I think she's been the only Kiwi we've seen mad in this country. Of course by the time we got back, we were all friends again. It was a fantastic time.

We took a great hike this morning and this was the first time the weather didn't lash out us. The countryside continues to be breathtaking. The trails are like none I've ever seen before. We hiked amongst the sheep but we've been unable to get a picture with one. They move away as soon as you get anywhere near them. It's just strange to see them perched in the middle of the moutains, on the side of a steep hill.

Between Queenstown and Hawkes Bay, where we are now, we stopped in Christchurch for 3 days. Unfortunately we landed in the pouring rain, and attempted to see the town, which is difficult in the rain, wind and cold. The night we landed was the night of the big playoff rugby game with the Christchurch Crusaders. There were parties everywhere and every bar was packed with painted faces and balloons, and as you can imagine, a few drunk faces. They won and everyone was happy...including Cheryl and I - we had fantastic Thai food and great wines and beer.

Cheryl had to take a homework day in Christchurch, so I set off to climb the highest mountain. Luckily, the rain stopped and the weather was perfect for the climb I found. It was an intense, very steep, about 1 hour up hill climb, but the views at the top were unbelievable. I explored the rest of Christchurch which was much prettier in the sunshine. There's a river that runs through the entire town and trees everywhere. Restaurants and bars are all set along the river. It's an English town that's starting to get updated so the architecture is a little schizophrenic with beautiful old English churches, buildings, schools and then modern buildings mixed in between. I walked around the university that they closed and have turned into artisan shops where craftsman go to create, paint, sculpt, wood carve and then sell their wares. The university is set in the middle of rolling gardens with the river running through. It’s great space with cute courtyards. A perfect place to perch for the day.

We continue to eat fabulous meals and drink amazing wines, and all for incredibly cheap prices. The beer here is also fantastic - smooth with no after taste. The people continue to be the friendliest bunch I've ever met. Couldn't be more helpful. Our rental car guy offered to take us around the vineyards - he was in a wine club here and gave us great information.

We can't believe we're more than halfway done with our trip, but we still have 2 stops left. We're off to the northern tip tomorrow - Bay of Islands and then down to Auckland where we finish our trip.

Happy Memorial Day. We toasted the country today!
_________________________________

I can't believe we're leaving today. We've had a great time in New Zealand and I'd recommend it to anyone. Since I last wrote we've been up to the northern tip of NZ, called the Bay of Islands. The name says it all. Water everywhere, mountains, pastures, and of course the animals. It's not everyday you driving 60 mph and then are stopped by 2 dozen cows walking across the street. We did meet some bull traders since that's about all there is up there. Cute towns, great woodwork. We followed an interesting arts and crafts trail and got some history of the island at their "Treaty House."

We're in Auckland now, the big city. It's a dramatic change from the farmland we've been in, but still a spectacular city. They have lots of interesting neighborhoods and areas though I'm starting to miss the sheep. We were here for the Queen's bday and since there's heavy English influences, you can imagine the partying going on, plus everyone had a long week-end. Unfortunately the bars didn't close until the sun came up. Sometimes you need someone to tell you to go home. All I can say is that we were walking home in the daylight as people were chanting USA while pumping their fists in the air. We like to think we left our stamp on the country.

The only thing we have left to do today is have a burger at some great burger joint (it will be our first one here, but evidently the meat is fantastic - we've seen and tasted it firsthand). And Cheryl needs to have high tea. We cover all the bases.

I'll have to bore you with all the other not fit for e-mail stories later and of course there are plenty of pictures. Look forward to talking and seeing everyone soon.